Café Laguardia on 780 WBBM Radio

Laguardia on WBBM 780 Radio

A NEWSRADIO 780 WBBM RESTAURANT REVIEW BY SHERMAN KAPLAN
BROADCAST JULY 2, 2004

Cafe Laguardia, at 2111 West Armitage Avenue is funky, Latin, noisy buzzing with excitement. And, the food's pretty good, too. From the moment you walk in, there is a sensory overload. For comfort, there are a handful of sofa arrangements where you can wait for a table, have a drink, just schmooze and take in the atmosphere. Warm weather allows for casual outdoor sidewalk seating.

Cafe Laguardia is family owned. Carlos Laguardia is in charge - a robust, outgoing personality with a suntan just this side of a fashion magazine ad. His mother is often at the hosting station, when he isn't. In either case, the welcome is like being greeted as family friend.

I don't go much for foo-foo tropical drinks. But, for Cafe Laguardia, I made an exception, for a mojito. The mojito is a popular Cuban drink, a rather simple concoction of rum, soda water, sugar, mint leaves, and lime juice. The mint is more prominent in flavor than the rum, a perfect bubbly refreshment for Chicago's hot summer nights.

Cafe Laguardia is much more than a bar. The menu is a broad assortment of Cuban style snacks, dinners and desserts. The house specialty, no surprise here, is Paella Valencia, the Spanish inspired rice casserole infused with saffron. It's interesting that those who came in search of gold, brought their own sort of gold to The New World.

The paella is made to order, which means a lead time of close to 45 minutes. The wait is well worth it. Though the minimum portion is for two, this is clearly enough to feed four people, maybe more. The rice is slowly simmered in chicken stock, a little bit added plumping slowly, stirred into the stock, absorbing the liquid and seasonings. Lobster, shrimp, chicken, and ham are combined, with a ring of roasted plantains in the same large paella pan in which it has been slow cooked. The result is savory, decidedly tropical, clearly Hispanic.

Usually, when reviewing restaurants, I try to sample at least something of each course. Not this time. When the paella arrived, it was clear that any more food would be a waste. So, I cannot comment on the likes of grouper or red snapper, nor chicken in garlic sauce, nor veal stew or any of the dinner sized soups or sandwiches.

I did taste excellent Argentinean steak, marinated before grilling. Expect to spend about $40 a couple for three courses plus add ons. Frankly, I can't wait to return and try what I've missed. Cafe Laguardia is at 2111 West Armitage Avenue, and has a K/RATINGof 18/20.

AMBIANCE/DECOR 4/4
HOSPITALITY 5/5
FOOD 8/10